When we first planned our trip to Palawan, like most travelers, we were captivated by the dreamy images of El Nido. Towering limestone cliffs, pristine white-sand beaches, and the promise of a remote island paradise filled our imagination. We envisioned ourselves sipping fresh coconut juice while watching the sunset over turquoise waters, completely immersed in the beauty of nature.
However, what we found upon arrival was vastly different from the idyllic scenes depicted on social media and in our Instagram feeds.
El Nido: A Victim of Its Own Popularity
El Nido is no longer the untouched paradise it is so often advertised as. Instead, we found a town that has been completely overrun by tourism and its accompanying industry. While tourism undoubtedly brings economic benefits to the local population, we were surprised at just how far the town had evolved from its original allure.
The first thing we noticed was the sheer level of development. Every inch of the main streets had been transformed into hotels, restaurants, tour agencies, or souvenir shops. There were no trees, no greenery—just an endless stretch of commercial establishments catering to an ever-growing influx of tourists. The lack of shade made walking through town during the day unbearable, and the constant construction noise filled the air.
Our first dining experience in El Nido was a telling one. As we settled into a well-reviewed restaurant, we were soon forced to leave—not because of the food, but because of the deafening sound of jackhammers from ongoing construction next door. This wasn’t an isolated incident; throughout town, the sounds of drills and hammers were a constant presence.
While we understand the necessity of tourism in supporting the local economy, we also hoped to see a more sustainable balance between development and preservation. Instead, it felt like El Nido was in a race to accommodate more tourists at any cost, sacrificing the very environment and charm that once made it special.
Disheartened by what we saw, we made a spontaneous decision to look elsewhere. That’s when we found Sibaltan.
Sibaltan: A Glimpse of What El Nido Used to Be
A little over an hour’s drive from El Nido, Sibaltan sits on the opposite coast of the island. Unlike El Nido, where tourists outnumber locals, Sibaltan remains relatively undiscovered. Here, locals outnumber visitors at least 4 to 1, and tourism feels like a supplement to the community rather than its driving force.
One clear indication of how undeveloped Sibaltan remains is the fact that the only ATM in the area was removed due to lack of use. There are no high-end resorts or bustling bars. Instead, accommodation consists of homestays and small eco-lodges that blend into the landscape rather than overpower it. Many of these places only have electricity during the day, adding to the feeling of being off the grid and truly immersed in nature.
We stayed at a small place called Erlittop, which sits on a hill overlooking the ocean. There was no hot water, but after a day of exploring, a cool shower with an ocean breeze was more refreshing than we could have imagined.
Sibaltan offered us what we had originally hoped to find in El Nido—a place where nature still takes precedence. The beaches were quiet, the sand untouched by large crowds. The water was impossibly blue, and most importantly, the coral was alive. Unlike El Nido, where marine life is dwindling due to overtourism, Sibaltan still teems with life. Sharks, manta rays, parrotfish, clownfish, angelfish, and vibrant schools of barracuda are common sights here, proof that the ecosystem is still thriving.
The Lesson in Traveling Differently
Our decision to leave El Nido for Sibaltan wasn’t just about escaping the crowds—it was about seeking out an experience that felt more authentic, more in tune with the nature and culture of Palawan. We realized that in today’s world, places that retain their original charm are rare. As travelers, we contribute to the very problem we lament: the transformation of once-remote paradises into overcrowded tourist hubs.
That doesn’t mean we shouldn’t travel. It means we should travel more mindfully. Instead of following the well-worn path, consider venturing beyond the mainstream destinations. Sometimes, the true gems are just a little further down the road, waiting to be found.
For us, that gem was Sibaltan—a place that feels like what El Nido might have been decades ago. A place where the trees still stand, the reefs still thrive, and the beauty of Palawan remains untamed..for now.
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